Louis Vuitton launched its Spring 2015 show today, watch it now as it begins with a outerworldly, ethereal and spacey (not Kevin) theme. At the helm of Vuitton’s “space” ship, sans Marc Jacobs, is Nicolas Ghesquière. Small in stature, he looms large in the fashion world and this collection surely cements that. The theme of time travel is not lost on the viewer as the styles jump from era to era easily, smoothly, and for a woman in her 40s, it was pretty emotional and evocative of so many wonderful memories in my life: those of my grandmother’s, mother’s and my fashions as I’ve grown up. As we know, great fashion always comes back in vogue and Ghesquière has grabbed the best ideas by the cojones and squeezed every last drop of true genius out of each era amassing in one hell of a spectacular showing. One in which, it is rare I would say this of any design house collection, I would actually wear 90 + percent of it. So who is the man behind this great collection?
Ghesquière was born in Comines in the north of France in 1971. At the age of 15, he earned his way into the fashion business through various internships, which I truly admire because he is a rare self-made man. After completing his studies, Ghesquière designed as an assistant for Jean Paul Gaultier. By 1995, Ghesquière left Gaultier for Balenciaga, where he was appointed its Creative Director in just two short years time. He was acclaimed for his “sculpted, futuristic silhouettes and Parisian chic”. For three seasons at Balenciaga, Ghesquière designed for a few different companies, including the Italian based house of Callaghan. By 2001, Ghesquière won the CFDA “International Designer” award. In 2006, he was elected by Time Magazine as one of the 100 most influential people in the world and was made “Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres” in 2007 by the French government. Ghesquière is hailed as one of the most intriguing designers of his generation and is widely credited for launching trends that have resonated throughout the world. On November 5th, 2013, Nicolas Ghesquière joined Louis Vuitton where he was appointed Artistic Director of Women’s collection. How I see the collection in eras:
1950s : Classic trench coats, sweet sweater dresses, tie necks, pretty box purses
1960s: Gorgeous, bohemian flower child flowing dresses with Elizabethan touches and Scottish (Outlander if you will) criss cross ties, flutter sleeves, Virgin whites, touches of sexy black, lots of lace, cullottes (long shorts for you girls who are too young to know), soft suede boots, and a few stylish leather jackets for edge. It was the age of Rock and Roll, Woodstock, Hendrix and Joplin.
1970s: The soft button down Saturday Night Fever shirts with an emphasized pointed collar, fitted to flatter a woman’s figure and nice cropped velvet pants, flowered patterns reminiscent of Jim Morrison and covers of Rolling Stone, getting stoned and all that jazz man. Cognac boots, soft, wavy hair, makeup to match, not overdone.
1980s: Makeup is heavier, especially the mascara. Touches of fur, lots of leather strips and the hair band emphasis is screaming in subtle but obvious ways. Colors are brighter, leather is striking, black is back (AC/DC baby), the boots are kick ass but the dresses are still feminine and classy.
1990s: Sleek, stylish, the sequins and glam is showing through as grunge kills the hair bands and more of a fashion mixture begins to emerge. We see glam, leather, sleek, ethereal, anything goes.
2000: Sequins, Jersey leopard with striping, roses (without the Guns), killer patterned stockings, heavy eye makeup, women are full-out Glamazons, owning it and taking over the World.
2010 – forward: The quintessential mixture of all of the above. And why not, women can have and be it all now. Feminine, edgy, sporty, tailored, ruffled, get it girl! And if you can afford Louis Vuitton, get it all!
Dislikes: I would be remiss to say I loved it all and not mention I did not like the two patterns below. But I don’t like patterns generally. Elvis forbid Priscilla Presley to wear patterns near her face as it drew the eye away from her face and he was right about that (and wrong to tell her what to do, I realize), but the King got it right once in a while. Ooh, now I’m all shook up.
Here to stay: